Kep

The seaside resort of Kep-sur-Mer, famed for its spectacular sunsets and splendid seafood, was founded as a colonial retreat for the French elite in 1908. Cambodian high rollers continued the tradition, flocking here to enjoy gambling and water sports, and in the 1960s it was home to Cambodia’s leading zoo.

The Khmer Rouge – radical Maoists who loathed the bourgeoisie – were known to harbour a particular hatred for the town and the destruction they wrought was nearly total. Today, dozens of Kep’s luxurious pre-war villas are still just blackened shells, poignant reminders of the long years of Khmer Rouge rule and civil war. Inhabited by squatters, the mansions – remnants of a once-great (or at least rich and flashy) civilisation that met a sudden and violent end – have a post-apocalyptic feel.

After several false starts, Kep finally seems to be rising from (or among) the ruins. It’s again popular, especially on weekends and holidays, with the wealthy elite of Phnom Penh. Drawn by the languid, Riviera-like atmosphere, they drive down in SUVs to picnic and frolic on the scruffy beaches (even before the war, white sand was shipped in from Sihanoukville to keep up appearances). If you want to see the town before big money transforms it, you’d better hurry.

From the Lonely Planet travel guide.